Sun 6/6/10 Toledo

The Toledo cathedral lit up at night

The alcazar and the cathedral at night

The main square full of banners

The narrow medieval streets of Toledo with sun shields

The Puerta del Sol towers form the gates to the old city wall

Toledo from a distance, the alcazar is prominent

We liked the flowers and banners

Early this morning we took the subway to the airport and met the rest of the family (Tom, Frances, and Stuart). We picked up the rental car and drove to Toledo where we saw the old city, and the puerta (gateway into the original town wall). Unfortunitly, the Alcázar (military fort) was closed. We saw a gothic cathedral and then had lunch on the terrace of a small restaurant where we got to try rabbit. Then we saw a torture museum, showing all the instruments used by the Christians to torture the infidels during the reconquest.

The city was draped with banners out all the windows and many bands were playing. Maybe that is part of the Corpus Christi celebration. The narrow winding streets had sunshades stretched over them which made the heat much more bearable.

That night, Libby, Tom, Frances, and Stuart saw a bullfight. Camille didn’t attend because she didn’t want to support cruelty to animals. This fight had 3 different toreadors killing 6 different bulls. We watched only 3 of them and then we had had enough. They all followed the same pattern. The bull came out and the toreador played with him for a while, using his cape to goad the bull into action, but then neatly stepping to the side. Then the picador came out on a padded horse. The padding is to prevent disemboweling of the horse, and we read that the horse’s vocal chords are clipped so it can’t neigh too loudly in fear. The picador stuck a long lance into the bull’s neck. The bull would be spurting blood after that, every time it moved, so eventually would be completely coated with blood and grow weaker and weaker. Then three banderilleros come out and each stab two barbed sticks into the bull’s neck as he rushes at them. The sticks stay stuck there, although some fell out. This is to rile the bull up one more time, even though he is close to death. Then the toreador come out with a sword and his cape and eventually stabs the bull through the shoulders to the heart. After one or two stabs, the bull falls to the ground, and while people are cheering the toreador, the helpers come out and continue stabbing the bull through to the brain to make sure it is really dead. Then some horses come out and drag the bull out of the arena while other people are raking the dirt to get rid of the blood. It wasn’t easy to watch, although it was interesting to hear the people around us and see how much they were enjoying it. There was also live music and everyone seemed to be eating sunflower seeds.

We stayed at a Parador overlooking the city of Toledo. The paradors are a system of hotels built in historic buildings like forts, castles, and monasteries. It was very fancy, with good food, great views, and a swimming pool.